Damascus, Faded Opulence


These photographs, mostly taken in the C18th and C19th private courtyard houses and palaces in the Old City of Damascus offer a poignant reminder and glimpse into a vanished era in which dazzling beauty can be recognised, immediately, in the quality and intricate work of the painted ceilings, wooden wainscoting, stone carving, stucco relief, tile design and, essentially, the architecture that houses these wonders. Now no longer readily accessible they capture a unique moment.

In the late 1990s I enjoyed a happy collaboration with the writer Brigid Keenan, whose husband, a diplomat, had been posted to Damascus.

Very soon Brigid, as she writes, ‘found myself in love with Damascus.’

She was captivated by the Old City a beguiling labyrinthine maze of narrow streets and alleys; its souks exploding with vendors selling spices, herbs, sacks of dried flower petals, vegetables and fruit, nuts, dates and flat breads hot from clay ovens. Young boys weave through chaotic crowds bearing trays of small glasses of tea, barrows laden with plants or building materials negotiate tiny passages with seeming ease. Men in turbans squeeze pomegranate juice, falafel and shawarma cafes abound. Above all there is a seductive atmosphere, an aroma in whatever section of the souk you are passing through, be it carpets, leather, perfume or coffee, giving the whole an exotic sense of another world.

But behind this there is a hidden secret which Brigid discovered when she was taken by a friend to a nondescript doorway in a back street. She takes up the story.

Stepping through we were suddenly in another world, in a peaceful courtyard full of sunshine and birdsong, green with jasmine and vines and lemon trees, bright with roses and the gleam of a mosaic floor at our feet and a mother-of pearl inlaid fountain tinkling at its centre. Leading off this courtyard we glimpsed ornate rooms gleaming with mirror and gold. We felt we had entered some kind of fairyland.
— Brigid Keenan
Photo from Damascus by Timothy Beddow, photographer and contributor to 'Damascus, Hidden Treasures of the Old City'

This was Bait Mujallid, a wondrous palace in a sad state of disrepair, like so many. It was subsequently purchased and has been undergoing restoration. Brigid contacted me in London. I made the first of many visits, similarly falling under its spell. Our mission was to document as many houses as possible and publish a book in the hope that awareness would be raised about their distinct beauty and generate interest in their restoration.

We were extremely fortunate in being introduced to Mr Wafic Rida Saïd - who was brought up in a courtyard house in Damascus - and who generously supported the publishing project. ‘Damascus, Hidden Treasures of the Old City’ was published by Thames and Hudson in 2000.

There appeared a revival of interest, in the following years, with foreigners becoming aware of their idiosyncratic charm and significance, sympathetically restoring the fragile remains. But that all came to a tragic end in 2011. It is not easy to discover the state of these buildings at the present. But as these pictures were taken over 25 years ago, half of which those years since then the country has been ‘out of bounds’ it is unlikely any restoration has taken place - more likely deterioration.

I very much hope that the images stand testament to the former sparkling majesty of the Old City and a reflection of the culture of Syria.

10% of sales to be donated to the Saïd Foundation.

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